If you go from FF to APS-C, then you divide by 1.5, so if you use a FF camera with an 85mm f1.8 lens and you want the same look on your APS-C camera, then you must find a 56mm f1.2 APS-C lens. Even the light gathering will be very similar. This means that if you use a 36mm f2.7 lens on a FF camera, it will have very similar DOF and angle of view, to your 24mm f1.8 APS-C lens on an APS-C camera. So, when you have a 24mm f1.8 APS-C, it's equivalent to a 36mm f2.7 FF. It works for all formats, including m43 (2x crop factor), APS-C (1.5x for Sony/Fuji, 1.6x for Canon), medium format (they have a 0.xx crop factor) etc. It is the same as the base lens.įor equivalence, you must multiply both the aperture size and the focal length by the crop factor. The depth-of-field of the projected images is constant. When you do this the proportion of out-of-focus blur to in focus sharpness is not changed. The focal length is reduced and the relative aperture is increased. A smaller, brighter version of the image is projected. The opposite happens with the focal reducer. The focal length is increased and the relative aperture is reduced. The same image is projected, but it is larger and dimmer. Get a prime lens and a teleconverter and a focal reducer. I find it helpful to forget about cameras and just play with lenses. If you want an image with a certain depth-of-field and a certain angle-of-view, aperture used will need to change with the capture size. The amount of light stuff is per area so it doesn't vary by capture size.ĭepth-of-field depends on several things. There's two things aperture controls: the amount of light and the depth-of-field. You can also take multiple exposures at f/8 at different distances of the image and combine them in post by focus stacking if you’d like everything in focus. Each lens is different so I suggest either testing it out yourself or read or watch something that explains how the lens performs. Most lenses are typically their sharpest around f/8 and start to lose detail around f/11 due to a phenomenon called diffraction. lolĪnyway, back to the original question. This is why you’ll get a larger depth of field if you use an equivalent focal length lens. APS-C and M4/3 cameras use a smaller focal length to get the equivalent focal length of a full frame camera. (Thanks, Tony Northrup…) For all intensive purposes, f/8 is f/8 is f/8. That’s some new age mumbo jumbo to confuse the masses. They are all Full Frame users.īut I just read that for APSC we need to multiple the aperture by 1.5 (sony)? So when I set my aperture to F11 on a crop sensor im actually shooting at almost F16? In which case F8 for apsc would equate to F11 for Full frame?Ĭan anyone with experience with both systems shed some light on this topic? Watching abundant youtube videos on landscape photography, everyone mentions shooting between F8-F16 to get the most DOF. So I've read 2 different schools of thought on Aperture on APSC sensors.
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